Bronnie's African Adventures

Sunday, August 27, 2006

Risotto, Fun Days and Theatre...

Hello all



So I made the best risotto ever last week. I was a bit worried coz i had no white white and the hot plates have 2 functions - off or turn everything to charcol. But it all came together and it was a huge sucess. I educated many of the Zulu and Swazi girls on my floor about the process of risotto making and the one girl who was really keen came and inspected my progress regularly and was overwhelmed with how good it tasted in the end! I felt so proud! she's also considering going vego so i'm going to let her try everything I cook so I can convince how good it can be! So there you go Alex I hope my risotto rates well on your spud scale!

I also went to a 'Fun Day' at this community centre another social student Cara is doing her practical at. We were supposed to be marshals for the fun run to help the kids get over the road etc, but they social work girls were not what i would call organised and the fun run got cancelled - but only after I got this photo of the 3 of us looking stylish in orange! The day really needed more organisation and base rules for the kids - and more appropriate activies sometimes too. I don't think that 8 year old girls skank dancing on chairs in front of young boys making incredibly inappropriate comments was a great activity. Ladies I swear non of us (or anyone I see out) has anything on these girls they obvioulsy watch way too many film clips of Beyonce and who ever else rates on the skank dancing scales... But that is only part of the complex web of gender related problems here. But there were some great activites I helped run musical chairs and running races. And Cara is dating one of the sharks (local rubgy team) so they came and their mascot Sharkie was a huge hit. there were also some local boys about 15 who did this amazing street funk performence I was very impressed! People can really dance in this country!




I also went to dinner and the theatre with Lyndall, her mum and her mum's friends a guy called Nig. We went to this great little restraunt I had these yummy zucinni and feta fritters with yogurt and coriannder sauce! SOOO good. Then we went to see the play Sophiatown. Sophiatown was a freehold township in the 1950s which meant that 'blacks, coloureds, and indians' could live next door to each other. It was about their lives and this Jewish girl who moves in as a kind of socail experiment. It was very much about the politics of the time, especially the part where the benevolent government of the day decided to segregate the country and knock down the town and isolate all the 'races'. It was soo sad at the end i nearly cried. But i'm glad I saw it it gave me another insight into the history of SA, plus it was very funny in parts, the actors were great!

So yeah - apparantly my last entry sounded sad. I am really enjoying being here but there are a lot of social, racial, political and gender issues in the university and society in general that get to me sometimes, but negotiating them is all part of the experience. So don't think i'm not having a fantastic time coz it really is great here. But I do miss you guys at home too!

Thursday, August 24, 2006

First Impressions...

Hi

So I finally saw the NGO I am to be working with today. And I have very mixed impressions. We were talking about the nature of NGOs (which are actually legally NPOs - Non-Profit Organisations). Human Health Development Trust (HHDT) who I am working with are owed either 2.2 or 0.5 million Rand by the government (somehow 2 figures were thrown around not sure which is right). It seems the government contracts NPOs to do a job and pays them at the end. However they are not very good at actually coughing up the dough. You go through the process of writing letters to each level of the department till you get to the minister. If nothing happens then you sue them. And they shut you down by destroying your reputation. And that is the end. Questions anyone? I had plenty. How does the gov't get away with this? I can't tell if its a tokenistic effort ie. contracting the NPOs so that they look good internationally or if the bureacracy is just REALLY inefficent. Further to that it seems of the many many registered NPOs only 20% actually do anything for the community. The rest just take the money and run. A distrubring high percentage are actually GONGOs (Government Owned Non-Government Organisations) which means a minister basically owns the NGO (which is a front anyway) makes sure the tender goes to their NGO then does no work and keeps the dosh. And it seems there are no consequences if an NGO gets a tender and does nothing! You can just abscond with millions of Rand if you can produce a nice proposal in the beginning! I know that development is an industry, and now that I think about it Natalie, I remember when your mum was with CARE and used to say development was a total fraud and money making scheme. I think I have to say I agree with her - at least in some cases. I can see why so many donors try to put so much conditionality on their loans/projects. But Eric (HHTD guy) was saying that most projects are now totally dictated by the donor, so for example when the donors are promoting TB programs everyone does TB programs, as soon as the agenda changes so does every single NGO! NOt just their projects but their charter and mission statement - everything.

I just feel like all those words which seemed to mean so much in my essays and lectures at home - like accountablity, community participation, empowerment, transperancy, mean nothing here in the real world. Sigh. I'm trying to take a duck's approach to it all - let the disturbing content roll of my back like water, rather than the sponge approach I usually have.... but its hard. This is all so depressing! It seems most people in this field are just corrupt money makers and its a multi-billion dollar industry!

Eric was saying that we will never win the battle against HIV in this country because it employs too many people - 2 million apparantly. A cure would kill all those jobs. Plus the millions of dollars that goes into politians pockets to ensure which NGO actually gets the tender. But how many millions of people are going to suffer and die painfully to sustain this industry. The development industry is the same I guess. If we actually solve the problem of poverty a huge number of people would be out of business. Personally I think that's an ok price to pay but it seems the rest of the world disagrees.

I know you're probably all thinking 'Bronnie you're so naive, this is the real world what else did you expect?' And I think the same. But I guess I'm just more optimistic than I realised because I refuse to accept this is the best it will be.

We also talked about the current state of the police force. It seems more than half of the trained officers have HIV. Which means in the near future most of them will be unfit for work - most likely dead. So the solution is to bring in all these new cops who have had 6 months training - mostly in what the uniform looks like and who the minister is. They have no actual training in how to be a police officer. That's meant to be learned on the job. But the real police resent this policy so no training is actually happening - they are totally clueless. For example one guy in my class, Siabonga, was telling me there was a traffic accident the other day that he saw. It was bad and there were 2 young cops who attended. The guy died in the car in front of everyone coz they didn't know how to get an ambulance. Personally I find this shocking. But it reminds me of when were in Cambodia and Nicole told us she saw this really bad accident happen right in front of them on the way to Angkor Watt - the car she was in kept going but they flagged down some police. The police listened but didn't really care at all, Nicole didn't even think they were going to attend the crash site - meanwhile the people in the car were probably dying. How is this ok? I know things are different overseas but it seems here life really is quite cheap. If its too much work to improve or even save the lives of others too bad for them. Maybe i've just never looked hard enough before but I swear not everywhere is like this.

Tuesday, August 22, 2006

The great SA divide...

Hi all

I've seen some interesting things in the last week. Most notably the divide between rich and poor which is also still pretty much the white and black divide. I met some students thro RAG which is a group of uni students who raise money for community projects tho i find some of their motives questionable - eg their weekend of community service involved quote 'going down to the beach, having a big braii and getting really drunk on saturday and then on sunday when we're really hungover we'll play with some blind kids for a few hours then come home' - those lucky kids! But I did end up going out with RAG to an evaluation of request for funding. it was a school for kids with disabilities and they were requesting funding for equipment, furniture and educational toys. I said they looked legit and should get the mula but I don't know if they did or not.

Anyway - point was that's how I met Zama, and she and her friends Nikki and Lyndall work at this community centre in a township called Inanda, and more specifically in Bhambayi. So Amy and I tagged along and heard about what they do as social workers doing their honours year. Some of their clients are HIV positive - one lady is really scared about passing it onto her kids so Lyndall is arranging the health care worker to meet with her and discuss exactly how it is transmitted. Another of Zama's clients has been left by her husband who refuses to pay child support, so she is mediating to try and help. It was really interesting but sad too. Most of the kids don't go to school despite the fact that the constituition says all kids have a right to education coz they can't afford it. So they literally kick around the township all day, in bare feet when there's glass and rubbish everywhere. One little guy we met Sindile (no idea how to spell it, that's my phoentic attempt) - the one brandishing the plastic knife has recently had scabies.

His parents have died and he lives with his sister but she doesn't really take very good care of him, she doesn't bath him so we went to talk to her about why she has to fulfil her responsibilies as his guardian. He looked cleaner about 1 hour later. But Amy and I were back in the township 2 days later and he was grubby again... so its an uphill battle mostly.

Here is some of the houses.


Here the people were packing mud onto their house, it sets like brick pretty much in the sun, tho I don't know how warm it is comparitively...



but then there are houses like this too.... ok i only saw one but still i don't want to give you the wrong impression



I also saw the other extreme when I went out with Lyndall (the one white girl) on Sunday. We went out to Ballito - her dad's girlfriend's house. But I saw her house too. Both homes are in gated communities. Its so odd - they're all so neat and tidy and identitical - all green roofs. There is no imagination there at all! There are apparantly 7 architecs (sorry James I can't spell) but to be honest I struggled to tell the difference between the houses. Lyndall said its the only place where you can leave your house unlocked in SA.

So that seems to be the 2 extremes. One half doesn't meet most of their basic needs despite a constitution that says their entitled to them while the other side builds bigger fences and moves further away so they don't have to deal with it! I know its not that black and white, but sometimes these fences and razor wire get to me. I just feel like its such an aviodence of the problem. If people tried to tackle the reasons why people steal they wouldn't need such insane security measures (eg the armed security officer I saw standing outside some beachside residences).

What else - my classes are so far very disappointing. One of my lecturers reminds me of Yoda, but unfortunately is far from insightful. He speaks very oddly in the arrangement of his words and repeats everything like 6 times! I know English isn't his first language - but I'm not convinced that is the root of the problem. He also likes to end every sentence with the word 'clear' and jumps up and down a lot.
We're busy looking at the definitions of projects in my community development class rather than how to actually faciliate a project. I keep telling myself its only early days... but its now week 4 of a 16 week term... oh well i wouldn't trade the experience of being here for anything! Actually its not so bad - i had a tutorial today and we almost looked at some serious issues, so i will persevere!

Monday, August 14, 2006

More Zululand Adventures

Hi All again

Hopefully the computer will be more cooperative tonight!

So we saw heaps of awesome animals - hippos (they were fantastic!), crocs, kudus, giraffes (so awesome!), baboons, zebra, impala, african sea eagles, elephants, potential rhino (i'm not 100% sure but they looked like what I imagine the asses of 2 rhinos would look) and a wealth of bird life.



We also visited this community. It seems like the whole community turned up - they did traditional Zulu dances for us - those little chicks can certainly dance! Then in theory we played sport - by in theory I mean I spectated and played with the kids, a much more worthwhile use of my time I feel! They were soo cute. At first they were a bit shy, but once they figured out what a digital camera can do, they became very egocentric and photogenic. Some of them are quite the budding photographer. One little guy whose name I can't pronounce coz it has a click in it was permanently attached to me. I think it partly the camera but I like to think it was my charm and personality also!



This is his handiwork:




There was some amazing dancing - these people can kick above their heads - like repeatedly! I wish i was that flexible!


I have more photos are flickr - http://www.flickr.com/photos/bronnieinafrica/ - check it out! ;)

Sunday, August 13, 2006


Hey all

I'm sure you're dying to know what i've been up to of late :) well i went to Capoeira - i tried, i sucked, i quit! It really wasn't my time, i felt even more like an uncordinated idiot than usual! That's cool - I'm going to try and swim - hasn't happened yet but i'm sure it will...

ZULULAND!
I've just come back from my Zululand trip. It was AWESOME! Like so much cooler than I was expecting! We stayed in these mad little huts - complete with beds and electricity, including fans, not that we needed them!

We dressed up in Zulu traditional dress and danced (although I skillfully managed to remain a spectator and photographer!)







Above is AJ from US, then a bunch of the guys, then Amanda (Canada) me then Ali (US)

We also went for a wander through the town we were staying in and visiting this 'grandma' who gave us straw mats to sit on and told us Zulu stories with Blessing (the guy who organised the trip translating). Then we crashed a local party and danced for a bit.

The next day was AWESOME! I saw hippos - it was like the highlight of my life - well maybe not, but pretty close! They are my favourite animal and they were so cool! just chillin in pods in the water like 15-20m from the boat where i was sitting! How awesome is that! We also saw heaps of birds and crocs and so forth!




Then we went to the game reserve - and I saw giraffes, impala, elephants, zebra, monkeys, duku (like a bison thing). It was amazing - giraffes are so beautiful! and I know this will sound stupid, but they are heaps taller than I expected!

ok - my blog is being a piece of crap and refusing to upload my photos and my friend Andrea wants to go, and due to the fact I have to walk with someone back to res I have to go - but I will add more adventures very soon! Stay tuned!

Saturday, August 05, 2006

Car Thief Extraordinaire


Sanibona!

Well today was a day of exciting adventures! Amy (Canadian on left), Ali (American next to Amy) and I left res this morning and caught a minibus to the markets. I bought some batik African paintings (and I thought batik was Indonesian only!) and had some lunch. The markets were pretty cool and we're thinking of making them a saturday morning ritual.

Anyway, after lunch we decided to go for a wander around the suburb we were in. So we headed up a random street when this lady (Mollie in the middle) stopped us and asked us to help her. She wanted us to give her a boost over this 6 foot fence! Turns out she came in the morning for church and left her car in the church car park to meet her friend for morning tea. When she got back the church and car park were all locked up so she couldn't get back in. We refused to let her climb the fence - convinced she'd fall or something. We elected Ali to climb over the six foot fence covered with barbed wire. So over she went with our assistance, but no sooner was she in than she headed back over to us. The car was a manual and she could only drive an auto! So as Amy can't drive I had to climb the fence in my skirt! I don't think I flashed anyone ;) and drove the car out for Mollie. She was so grateful that she insisted on taking us out for lunch - we compromised and allowed her to take us to afternoon tea. We drove up to this nursery that had a cafe in it and as you can see had scones!

We also each got plants for our room - I got an african violet (seemed appropriate!). I have to say that for all the emphasis on security around here it wasn't that hard to get over the fence! Once you get past the security locks on the gear stick I reckon I could make an awesome car thief!

MY ROOM

This is just a few pictures of my room - like I said its not much but I like it. As of today I now have some african art and an african violet but I took these photos the other day so they aren't in it!

Yes Mum i've been there a week and I already have stuff everywhere already - and there's nothing you can do about it! Muah ha ha aha!

In other news - Amy and I went to a club called Tiger Tiger the other night with Lucy's cousin Steve and his mates Patch and Lyle. Steve is really cool Lucy - i'm so glad you gave me your family's contact details! It was a really awesome night. Tiger Tiger was pretty cool - but like all whities. I asked some of the African students on res if they ever go there and they said on thurs and fri nights its only whites but on saturday lots of Africans go there too - so i'll have to head back again on a saturday.